Monday, January 24, 2011
Exclusive Interview With François Nars
Contributed by Daily Makeover's Amber Katz:
I don't have to tell the makeup obsessed gals that you are about what a legend François Nars is. For beauty junkies, his technicolor makeup products are the cosmetic equivalent of baseball cards. I recently had the chance to sit down with this superhuman talent and pick his brain about everything from how he keeps track of his inspired product names to his favorite makeup item of all time.
Daily Makeover: What is your all-time favorite beauty look you've ever created?
François Nars: My first favorite look is one that I brought back: False lashes. Twenty years ago, when I worked a lot with Steven Meisel, I brought back a very 1950s and 1960s eye liner effect. That was a time when you wouldn't see many false eyelashes. Mascara, yes--lashes, no. Another favorite: The ones I created for the Marc Jacobs fashion show in February 2009--a myriad of night clubbing visages. That was a great show and it was so much fun to create the makeup concepts for it.
DM: What the trick to creating a bold lip look?
FN: I stay away from rules. Rules get boring. You know? Too cliché. You can do a smokey eye and a red lip. It reminds me of the Helmut Newton photos from late 1970s early 1980s. There was no blush, just a deep-hued eye and strong lip. Helmut didn't like blush. The application is all about the way you adapt it. Some women look better with a pale lip, so it's more about what the woman individually can get away with. Get creative. Makeup is a way of expressing yourself. Try something else in front of the mirror. Simple as that. It's my goal to give women more freedom.
DM: What is your favorite eye shadow for creating a smokey eye effect?
FN: I like the dustiness of the NARS Cosmetics Brume Eye Shadow Duo. It almost looks bad in the pan, but on, it looks foggish and fantastic. It makes the eye pop, particularly if you have light eyes. Strong, obvious colors don't necessarily do that.
DM: What's the story with your Schiap lipstick and nail polish shade? Why do you think it's so iconic for your brand?
FN: It's named after Elsa Schiaparelli, the designer who's also the grandmother of Marisa Berenson. She invented the shocking pink in the 30s, which propelled her to fame. "Schiap" was her nickname. We worked hard to make it as close as possible. It's a bright bright bright pink--not Barbie pink, nor Pepto Bismol pink.
DM: What is your go-to red?
FN: NARS Cosmetics Semi Matte Lipstick in Jungle Red is my favorite. Even if it stops selling, it should remain. That name is so iconic because of the movie The Woman. NARS is the only one with that name. Jungle Red Lipstick launched with the original 12 NARS lipstick shades at Barneys, which were the original pieces of the line. It is a signature NARS red--stocked with rich, intense pigment and a semi-matte finish, it is a classic, perfect crimson.
DM: What is your single most-used makeup item?
FN: NARS Cosmetics Satin Lipstick in Honolulu Honey. This beigey-nude shade has been used in countless shoots, shows and ads. This shade also launched with the original 12 shades at Barneys. It is a perfect warm nude because it has just the right amount of yellow and pink. The combination of shades along with its sheer finish makes it ideal for all skin tones.
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A Peek Inside the Purple Lab Creatrix & Carry On
They don't come any chicer than our friend Karen Robinovitz, Creatrix of Purple Lab NYC cosmetics. We know Karen has been jetting to Florida and back a lot these days with her brand launch on HSN last month. Here's what she travels with:
I have an asymmetrical Alexander Wang silvery crushed velvet pseudo cardigan with a cowl drapy back that can be used as a hood so it's perfect for sleeping on a plane - the hood doubles as an eye mask because it hangs so low. It's comfy, cozy, and so chic all at once and it folds up into nothing. (That's Karen wearing it above.)
My carry on is a 25 year old Louis Vuitton oversized shopper my parents bought on a Paris vacation. Ten years ago, I found it in their garage, collecting dust. My mom didn't like carrying it because it was too heavy for the shoulder and they wanted carry-ons with wheels. I happily inherited it and gave it a happy home where it is more appreciated. It's so dark and worn, I love it. So much better than one that's brand spanking new. And it carries the memory of my family's first trip to France.
My must have beauty product are all Purple Lab makeup, of course! Huge Lips Skinny Hips in Worship Kate (mauve shimmer), Kitty Poledancer (pale pink) and Red Sole (shear red), Luvah in Mama's Boy which is the perfect nude, Silk Sheets luxe foundation, Lashionista Modelista in "After Dark" which is black with diamond dust (the liquid liner is amazing as a liner but if you lay it on thick and smudge it, it turns into steel gray shadow that rocks), Luxury Squared under eye concealer and highlighter, and Cheek Implants cream blush with collage in the shade Backstage Pass.
Hair-wise, I use all of Devachan's products for curls - their "No Poo" shampoo, their Deva One conditioner, Mirror Curl to bring on shine, and Arc Angel gel. I have been going there for 13 years and their products are my savior. Travel size, of course.
My SPF is Kate Somerville and hand cream is Bliss.
I travel with every celebrity weekly (I cannot lie - it's my guilty pleasure), Juxtapose (an art magazine that taps into street culture), Fast Company (my dream is to have Purple Lab featured), French Vogue for the imagery (I cannot speak a lick of the language, sadly), Dwell, and if the third book of the Hunger Games trilogy was out, I'd be reading that as well as Melissa de la Cruz's Blue Bloods vampire series (nothing like upper crust vampires in high fashion to escape with). I'll probably have a Malcolm Gladwell book as well - he is my literary hero.
For snacks, I bring Tazo Passion flavor tea and let it seep in a large bottle of water with Stevia - so much more flavorful than plain water. Dried mango and almonds as well.
When it comes to tunes, for the plane, I crave mellow - Sia, Massive Attack, Portishead, Air, Zero Seven. When I'm away, I like to turn it up - I have a great mix that a DJ friend made with a ton of amazing imported songs by artists I have never heard of. Very fashion runway.
What else? If it's a long flight, a travel sized Tempurpedic pillow, really yummy fleece socks, Chrome Hearts sunglasses (below) for getting off the plane in daylight (I'm obsessed with them and the subtle silver details on the arms), six inch heels if I have to go right from the airport to a meeting so I can turn on some chic to whatever I'm wearing.
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